Thailand's trains are slow, cheap and often beautiful. Four routes are worth planning a trip around: the overnight sleeper to Chiang Mai, the Death Railway to Nam Tok, the line to Ayutthaya, and the southern line to Surat Thani.
The short version
- Bangkok–Chiang Mai overnight sleeper: 13 hours, book a second-class berth.
- The Death Railway to Nam Tok crosses the Wang Po viaduct — sit on the left going up.
- Ayutthaya is 1.5 hours from Bangkok and makes a good day return.
- Third class is cheap and sociable; first class is private and not much faster.
Bangkok to Chiang Mai
The overnight sleeper is the classic: 13 hours, a proper bed in first class, and breakfast as the train comes through the hills. Book 60 days ahead on the State Railway site; second class is fine, first is better.
Bangkok to Ayutthaya
Ninety minutes in third class for a few baht. Hard seats, open windows, and the most fun you can have for 20 baht. Go early and come back by road.
Kanchanaburi and the Death Railway
The line over the Tham Krasae viaduct is the scenic section; sit on the right side going west. Combine with Hellfire Pass on the same day.
Practical
Trains are rarely full outside holidays, but sleepers sell out. Bring water and snacks; the food on board is basic. Third class is not air-conditioned — fine in the cool season, punishing in April.
Which routes are not worth it
Most of Thailand's rail network is functional rather than interesting, and a bus or a cheap flight beats it on nearly every route. The southern line to Surat Thani takes 9 to 11 hours against 90 minutes in the air; the north-eastern line to Nong Khai is 11 hours and has nothing scenic to justify it.
Third class is a genuine experience and very cheap — 50–250 baht for shorter hops — but it is also standing room in the hot season. If you want the romance, book a second-class sleeper on the Chiang Mai overnight and take buses for everything else.
One exception worth making: the Siam–Burma railway to Nam Tok, beyond the tourist section, where the train runs along the cliff above the river at Tham Krasae. Sit on the left going up and right coming back. It is the only train journey in the country that people repeat.
